Today marks an anniversary we will not be celebrating. On February 24, 2022 Russia invaded Ukraine and the terror, the pain, and hardship from the unbelievable acts of trauma continue. Something that also continues, however, and is worth celebrating is the resilience of the Ukrainian people in the United States and abroad, and those in New York City, in particular. That spirit is conveyed with deep emotion and vulnerability through the documentary out now and screening in limited theatres across the country through February 29. Veselka: The Rainbow on the Corner at the Center of the World.
The film, written and directed by Michael Fiore, delves into everything from the relationship between fathers and sons, and the preservation of a culture, to the pressure of running a restaurant, and the undeniable strength of a community upended by war. Fiore, who went to film school at NYU, was very familiar with the East Village restaurant —it’s impossible not to be when just blocks away—and has been a regular diner there for twenty years. Veselka, known for its pierogi, borscht, and countless popular Ukrainian dishes, has been serving the community now for 70 years.
“I knew a great deal about their three-generation story as told by the menu,” Fiore said, “but when looking into it more, the theme of father and son relationships really stood out.” Fast forward to when the war in Ukraine broke out, and the theme became even more apparent as father and son, Tom and Jason Birchard, positioned themselves as father figures to so many of their staff members and those in the local community eager to make sense of and find comfort amidst such turmoil.
Fiore realized that the timing was right for the film as it so closely parallels the origin of the restaurant. Tom’s father-in-law and Jason’s grandfather, Volodymyr Darmochwal, opened Veselka as a candy and cigar shop in 1954. As refuges themselves, Volodymyr and his wife Olga turned Veselka—which means rainbow— into a small but mighty safe haven for displaced Ukrainians after World War Two.
Tom retired in 2020 after 54 years of leadership. Jason took the reigns amidst the pandemic and has continued to do so amidst the war in Ukraine. The Birchard men have seen the corner shop grow and evolve from a tiny spot to grab a Ukrainian newspaper and a cup of coffee to an expansive restaurant, with multiple locations, an online ordering business, but most importantly, a vibrant hub for the Ukrainian community.
If You Know You Know
For many in New York, Veselka is THE place to go for tremendous plate of pierogies or varenky, a cup of borscht, and so many other authentic Ukrainian dishes. Going there is a treat as the food is not only delicious and made by scratch but the pride for the culture is evident everywhere you turn. From “Our Hearts Beet for Ukraine” or “Make Pierogi Not War” signs and Ukrainian flags, to the ever rotating murals by Arnie Charnick who has painted them for Veselka for over 40 years, a meal there is quite often a memorable occasion.
Since the start of the war, Veselka has regularly donated the proceeds from particular dishes to causes or members of the community affected by the war in Ukraine. To date, they have raised over $600,000.
With over 30 employees who have direct ties to Ukraine, many have struggled, as seen in the film, as they manage the burden of having a safe place to live and work, while others still suffer so far away.
When discussing the film—which has already opened in select theatres in Ukraine and New York and now in Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, and New Jersey—the feelings are overwhelming for the family. “This is my life story,” Tom explained. “Volodymyr and the Ukrainian community adopted me over 50 years ago.” He continued, “It’s incredibly gratifying on the one hand. And yet, there are mixed feelings because of what is going on… the suffering of our employees is still going on. In fact, we wish that the reason for part of this movie didn’t exit.”
Jason, who is still in the thick of day-to-day operations, says encouragement for his community continues. “People still come in droves to support the restaurant and our staff and we continue to advocate and shine a bright light.” He says he laments that his grandfather never saw a free Ukraine and would likely be shocked by the events of today. “However, big or small, we are a community.”
Veselka: The Rainbow on the Corner at the Center of the World demonstrates the power of food and a particular community; however, every tenet of the film details ideas and themes that affect everyone. Just as every culture has a version of a pierogi—hello ravioli, gyoza, wonton, momo, samosa, etc.—every viewer of the film will see their father, son, friend, and neighborhood in the people on the screen.
What’s next? After this premier week of screenings, the goal is to land on a streaming service so the story can reach well beyond its little corner in the the East Village.
The family recently opened up a pick-up and go location in Grand Central Terminal, and are planning to open soon in Williamsburg, at a 5,000 square-foot location. The Brooklyn hub will not only become a commissary and operation headquarters but have seating for approximately 40 guests.
